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Steel and helical piers

When a corner of the house is going down, piers carry it to ground that stays put

Clay near the surface swells and shrinks every year. A footing resting on it rides along. Piers bypass that layer and transfer the weight of the house to dense soil or rock far below, where the seasons don't reach.

Excavation beside a brick ranch house showing a steel push pier bracket under the footing and the galvanized pier pipe driven into brown clay

Settlement is the most common structural problem we see in the metro, and it has a pattern. One corner or one side of the house drops relative to the rest. Inside, doors start to stick and their frames go out of square, drywall cracks run up from the corners of doors and windows, and floors develop a slope you can feel. Outside, brick veneer cracks in steps, a gap opens where the chimney meets the wall, and the stair-step cracks show in a block basement. Floor elevation readings with a laser level confirm which part is going down, and by how much.

The repair is to put the house on piers. A steel push pier starts with a short excavation beside the footing. A steel bracket is fastened under the footing, and sections of galvanized steel pipe are pressed straight down through the bracket with a hydraulic ram, using the weight of the house itself as the reaction, until they reach load-bearing strata. Because each pier is driven against the house, every one is effectively load-tested as it goes in. Once all the piers are set, the house can be lifted back toward its original level in a controlled way, often closing cracks and freeing doors, and then the brackets are locked off.

A helical pier is a steel shaft with round plates welded on like the threads of a screw. It is turned into the ground with a hydraulic drive head instead of pushed, and its holding capacity is read from the torque as it goes in. Helicals suit lighter structures that don't have enough weight to drive push piers, like porches, additions and one-story wings, and they are also the usual choice for new footings and commercial additions.

How many piers? It depends on the length of the settling section and the load. A typical corner might take four to eight; a whole failing wall more. We space them by the load, not to fill a quota, and the engineer's or the city's requirements, when a permit calls for them, come first.

What the work includes

Elevations first

A laser-level survey of the floors so the pier plan follows the actual settlement, not a guess from one crack.

Push piers

Galvanized steel pipe pressed to load-bearing soil under the weight of the house, each one load-tested as it is driven.

Helical piers

Screw-in steel shafts for porches, additions, lighter wings and new footings, with capacity read from install torque.

Controlled lift

Where the structure allows, the settled section is raised back toward level in small, watched steps.

Small excavations

Holes beside each pier location only; soil is set on plywood, backfilled and tamped, and the lawn raked out.

Permit and paperwork

The permit pulled where the city requires one, with the pier depths and pressures recorded for your file.

What steel and helical piers costs in Kansas City

ItemPlanning rangeWhat moves it
Steel push pier, per pier$1,400 – $2,600Depth to load-bearing soil, access, footing type
Helical pier, per pier$1,600 – $3,000Shaft size, plates, depth and torque needed
Typical corner, 4 to 6 piers$6,500 – $15,000Includes excavation and backfill
Interior piers through the slabAdd $400 – $900 per pierConcrete cut and patched
Engineer's letter, when required$400 – $900Some cities or buyers ask for one

These are planning ranges for the Kansas City metro, not quotes. Your price is written after the free inspection, line by line, and nothing starts until you approve it.

On the job

Track-mounted drive head turning a galvanized helical pier into wet clay beside the corner of a brick home, a worker guiding it from behind
Track-mounted drive head turning a galvanized helical pier into wet clay beside the corner of a brick home, a worker guiding it from behind
Galvanized pier bracket bolted beneath a concrete footing in a clean excavation, a level resting on top
Galvanized pier bracket bolted beneath a concrete footing in a clean excavation, a level resting on top

Common questions

Will the house be lifted back to level?

Often part of the way. We lift in small steps while watching the walls, chimney and plumbing, and stop where the structure tells us to. Some older homes are best stabilized where they are rather than forced back.

How deep do the piers go here?

As deep as it takes to reach load-bearing soil or rock, which varies street to street across the metro. Push piers are driven until they reach the pressure the load calls for; we record the depth and pressure for each one.

Push piers or helical piers?

Push piers need the weight of the house to drive against, so they suit most homes with basements. Helicals don't, so they suit porches, additions, light structures and new construction. Some jobs use both.

Do I need a permit for piers?

Structural work like underpinning generally needs one in Kansas City, Missouri, through Compass KC, and in most Kansas-side cities. We pull it as part of the job.

Does this stop the cracks from coming back?

The piered section stops settling. Cosmetic cracks are patched afterward. Sections of the house that weren't piered can still move, which is why the elevation survey matters.

Seeing a new crack, a wet corner or a door that sticks?

A free inspection tells you what the house is doing and what, if anything, it needs. The written price comes before any work, on either side of State Line.

Call (816) 623-4795